When car windows start moving super slowly, making weird stuttering sounds, or just refusing to budge at all, it can be pretty annoying. But here’s the thing: what seems like a small hiccup might actually point to a motor issue hiding inside your door.
The most common failure is the window regulator itself, and most window regulators are now the cable-and-pulley style. When the regulator fails, the motor may run without moving the window or the window may even fall into the door. If you hear the motor but the window isn’t moving, you’ll need an entire regulator, which comes with the motor. But on older spring-loaded scissor-type window regulators, the motor is the most likely component to fail.
The good news is that catching these problems early leaves you with good options. You might discover it’s just a simple fix, or you could replace a motor that’s starting to fail before it completely gives up on you.You’ll find tons of guides out there listing basic symptoms of why your windows won’t roll up, but here’s what really helps: knowing how to check if you have a dying window motor. This saves you from the frustration and expense of replacing perfectly good switches or rewiring when those aren’t even the problem. It’s a good idea to learn about straightforward diagnostic steps and the key warning signs to look out for.
Accurately narrowing down the cause of the issue matters before you buy parts. Here are some signs it might be time to replace your window motor:
On a window that won’t move and doesn’t make any sound at all, an experienced mechanic will open the door, switch the key to ON, and watch the dome light while operating the switch on the inoperative window. If the dome light dims slightly or measured battery voltage indicates an electrical load, you know the motor is receiving power and ground. In that case, the regulator may be fouled.
If your window crawls up or down, or seems to change speed halfway, the motor is struggling. It’s losing strength, often from worn brushes or tired internal gears.
Clicking, grinding, or buzzing sounds when you press the switch usually mean the motor is under stress. Those sounds are the mechanical parts inside fighting against wear.
Intermittent function often signals electrical wear inside the motor or problems with the switch. If the windows have been left down and rainwater has entered the switch assembly, or if somebody has spilled beer or soda pop on the switches, suspect the switch.
Wiping the spillage from the outside doesn’t clean the inside of the switch where the contacts are.
On worn-out window motors, brushes lose contact, wiring overheats, and eventually it quits altogether.
If the window tilts, stops halfway, or feels uneven, the motor may not have enough torque left to handle the load. In many cases, the regulator is also binding, which puts extra stress on the motor.
Press the switch and nothing happens—no hum, no twitch, no movement. That’s often a dead motor, though wiring and switch issues can mimic it. But again, don’t go buy a window motor until you’’re sure. Usually, buying the entire regulator-on-cable types makes more sense than just buying a motor, because the regulator fails far more often than the motor.
On rare occasions, a failing motor overheats and gives off a faint burning smell. That’s the internal windings cooking, and it means the motor is on borrowed time. However, you won’t usually experience this because power window motors and power door lock motors often have an internal circuit breaker.
Before replacing parts, try these simple tests to identify motor issues from wiring or regulator problems.
Inspect the circuit breaker and check if the power window fuse is blown. Replace the fuse as needed and test again. Follow the wiring inside the door and check for loose connections, corrosion, or damaged insulation.
Press the window button and pay attention to the noise that your window makes. A hum or buzz means power is reaching the motor. Silence may indicate a dead motor or a bad switch.
Disconnect the battery and remove the interior panel carefully. This exposes the window regulator and motor for closer inspection.
Use a multimeter at the motor’s connector while pressing the switch. If you see 12 volts but no movement, the motor is the problem.
Run jumper wires from the battery straight to the motor and watch what happens. If it spins but the window doesn’t move, it’s the regulator. If it doesn’t spin, it’s finished. If it does spin and the window operates all the way up and down, check the switch and wiring.
Disconnect the motor and move the window manually. If the regulator binds, that resistance could have accelerated motor wear.
If possible, open the motor housing and inspect the brushes and commutator. Worn or pitted components mean the motor won’t last much longer.
Replacement is inevitable if the motor fails direct power testing, shows visible internal wear, or gets hot during normal operation. If it’s already working only half the time, it won’t magically recover. Many cars use combined regulator-and-motor assemblies, so replacing both at once often makes sense.
Labor to replace a car window motor averages 1.5 to 3 hours, typically billed at $120 to $150. You can expect to spend $60 to $300 on parts alone. In total, you can expect a bill of $200 to $400 for most cars. Repairs for luxury models may cost more.
Doing it yourself can save you on labor, but the job may not be as simple as it seems. Door panels hide clips, wires, and delicate seals that can break easily. Weigh the savings against the risk of breaking something else.
Keep your window motor running in tip-top shape by following these installation tips.
Take photos while disassembling the door. Small clips and screws look identical, and guessing later is frustrating.
Disconnect the battery and use trim tools to avoid breaking plastic panels.
Apply silicone or white lithium grease to the regulator tracks. Less resistance means less stress on the new motor.
If the window glass is crooked in the track, even a new motor will struggle. Adjust it before tightening everything.
Run the motor a few times with the door panel off. It’s easier to fix problems before reassembly.
Bundle wires neatly with clips to prevent them from interfering with moving parts.
Operate the window a few times under normal use to let the new gears settle in.
Confirm the window fully opens and closes, and that the seals keep water out.
If the regulator is stiff or bent, replacing the motor alone won’t solve the problem.
Reattach the vapor barrier and seals, so moisture doesn’t damage your new motor.
Any information provided on this Website is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace consultation with a professional mechanic. The accuracy and timeliness of the information may change from the time of publication.