There are many reasons you might keep a vehicle in storage for long periods. Perhaps it’s part of a collection of classic cars meant mostly for display. Maybe you simply didn’t need to drive about for a while because you were on vacation or using another.
In this article, we’ll walk you through the exact steps you need to safely start your old car that has been sitting in storage.
One consideration is how well it was prepared for storage before it was parked and under what conditions. Was it under an open pole barn or inside four walls? Was it parked knowing it was going to be left there for a long time before it was to be driven again? What kind of shape is the vehicle in overall? Have rodents been living under the hood building nests and chewing on the wires?
If so, was fuel stabilizer added to the fuel tank? Even better, was the fuel tank drained completely to prevent the gasoline from going bad? Was the carburetor drained (if equipped) by running the engine with the gas tank empty until the carburetor had no gas in it? If that was done, the carburetor is likely clean with little or no varnish to cause problems.
If the car was only stored for a few weeks, that’s one thing. If it was stored for a year or more, that’s different. And if it was parked without the knowledge that it would sit fallow for a long time, there’s a pretty good chance that more work will be required. But that’s not always the case, as peculiar as that may sound.
Whatever the case, starting a stored car requires careful preparation, but again, every experience getting an old car started is different. Some require surprisingly little work. Others wind up being practically nothing but an elaborate ship anchor.
If you find yourself in the position to undertake this, do it carefully.
If you didn’t use a trickle charger to keep your old car’s battery topped up during storage, it’s probably out of charge. Go ahead and charge the battery on slow charge for about four hours (4-6 amps) and then either check the battery yourself or have it checked at a parts store.
You can remove the battery for storage before the vehicle is parked to keep this from happening, but even if you removed it, you still need to check it before you reinstall it.
Okay, now that you’ve determined that the engine has oil and coolant and spins over well, you need to check the fuel system to see what needs to be done.
If the fuel has a sharp, sour or varnish-like smell or a darkened or cloudy appearance, it all needs to be removed from the tank, the lines, and the carburetor (if equipped). It may also have clogged the fuel injectors.
The fuel filter keeps the fuel flowing into your engine clean and contaminant-free. If it has been there for a long time (fuel filters are often neglected even on vehicles that are driven) replace it.
The fuel pump drives the fuel from the tank to the engine, and it tends to degrade over time. Inspect the fuel pump for leaks or damage before starting your vehicle. If it has issues, the vehicle might not start at all.
Check and change the vehicle’s motor oil as needed. Replace the oil filter.
Keep in mind that if your vehicle is a classic car made before the 1980s with a flat-tappet camshaft, you’ll need to top it up using oil with a zinc additive called ZDDP. If your vehicle doesn’t require this additive, make sure to buy an oil without it. Otherwise, the zinc can contaminate the catalytic converter.
Check and refill the vehicle’s other important fluids as needed, including the transmission fluid, brake fluid, and coolant.
Dust and dirt will settle inside an old car’s engine bay if it’s been sitting idle for a long time, so inspect and clean the engine bay thoroughly.
Also, keep an eye out for any critter infestations. You don’t want to smell burned rodents in your engine when you fire it up.
If you find signs of rodents or other critters nesting in the engine bay, inspect the wiring. If there are holes in the air intake ducting or there are exposed, chewed-on wiring harness parts, the electrical system might be compromised.
Have a professional auto electrician take a look at your vehicle if you suspect damaged wiring.
Tires can deflate and develop flat spots if your vehicle’s been in storage for a while. Re-inflate tires with low air pressure to the correct, manufacturer-recommended pressure. Change the tires if they can no longer hold air or if the damage to their tread or sides is too great.
Also, examine your vehicle’s brake pads to ensure they have enough material on them to reliably stop your vehicle. If you notice braking abnormalities while driving or the brake pads look like they have too little material left on them, take your vehicle in for an inspection asap.
Once you’ve checked all essential parts and ensured they’re working well, you can start and test drive your vehicle.
Ensure the charging system is working and double-check the brakes before taking on the roads. Pull each wheel to check for hydraulic fluid leaks if you want to be extra safe. The test drive should help you identify any areas that still need repairs.
And that’s it! Now you know what to do with an old car that’s been sitting for a while.
Any information provided on this Website is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace consultation with a professional mechanic. The accuracy and timeliness of the information may change from the time of publication.