Unless you own your own press or you have a sports, classic, or niche market vehicle in where the value in having all original manufacturers parts under the vehicle vs not would effect resale or your sports car has tubular, Aluminum, billet, or titanium LCA’s. Hands down by the complete part. In the case of most LCA’s that have multiple bushings and one is bad. You still have to remove the part anyway to get that pressed out and in so now you’re adding time bring the part to a shop then trust that actually have press to do the job and a tech that can properly jig the LCA so that the bushing is pressed out and new one pressed in straight and true. You just spent the money to replace one bushing and/or ball joint when you could have had all components in the LCA new for the same or likely less money. Also depending on where you live and how you maintain your undercarriage many Steel and Iron LCA’s are going to be completely covered in surface rust by the time you ball joint and or bushing is going bad. Now if you want to fix that rusting you’re even more time and money into scraping, scaling, treating, coating, and often in the case of when I perform chassis repair Top Coating a factory part. I’m glad to take peoples money for bringing rusted parts back from the dead and ensuring they can begin to rust again. Big Shout Out to Mastercoat’s product line But u less this was a vehicle where keeping the factory part from the OEM is critical to its value, just pick up new aftermarket replacement LCA’s such as these and if you’re worried about oxidation and rust. Look into Lanolin based products such as Surface Sheild, WoolWax, and other fine Lanolin based coatings that self heal and displace water and keep the contaminants you’ll pick up on the road that aid in the oxidation process from even getting to the metals in and on you undercarriage