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  • DTC P0330 stands for “Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2),” and it’s logged when there’s something wrong with knock sensor 2.
  • Code P0330 is usually caused by defective knock sensors, malfunctioning PCMs, and engine problems.
  • Typical symptoms of the code P0330 include lit check engine lights, engine pings on acceleration, and an overheating engine.

The engine code P0330 is set when your vehicle’s computer perceives a problem with the knock sensor or its circuit. This guide will give you a general idea of the common causes and symptoms of this code, how to troubleshoot it, and more.

What Does the P0330 Code Mean?

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0330 stands for “Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2).” It indicates that a malfunction has been detected with the #2 knock sensor or its circuit.

The knock sensor monitors engine “knock”—this indicates that the engine is experiencing unusual combustion in the form of detonation or pre-ignition.

knock sensor
Code P0330 may be set when your PCM detects a problem with the #2 knock sensor or its circuit.

The knock sensor is usually bolted or threaded into the engine block. It sends a message to the vehicle’s computer or powertrain control module (PCM) whenever it detects that one or more of the engine cylinders are knocking. The PCM then uses the information to adjust the ignition timing in order to prevent more knocking.

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The P0330 code is stored in your vehicle’s memory when the PCM detects that the input voltage from the knock sensor 2 is either too high or too low. If left unaddressed, this error code could lead to more serious engine problems and damage.

If you’re planning to fix P0330 yourself, you can read our in-depth technical discussion about knock sensors for more information. Otherwise, continue reading for the most likely causes of P0330.

P0330 on Some Lexus Vehicles

Code P0330 may appear on some Lexus vehicles. On a 1999 Lexus ES300 3.0L V6, for example, the code appears because of the following conditions:

  • Knock sensor signal circuit is shorted to voltage
  • Knock sensor signal circuit is open or shorted to ground
  • Knock sensor is damaged, not tightened properly or has failed
  • Knock sensor connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture)
  • Failed ECM

What are the Possible Causes of the P0330 Code?

Determining the root cause of any trouble code is important when coming up with an effective, long-term solution to the problem. Here are the possible causes of the P0330 error code:

  • Defective knock sensor
  • Issues with the knock sensor circuit (e.g., damaged wiring or poor connections)
  • PCM issues
  • Engine mechanical problems
engine lack of power
Drivability problems such as lack of power and engine hesitation when accelerating are some of the common symptoms of the P0330 code.

What are the Common Symptoms of the P0330 Code?

Below is a list of the common symptoms you may encounter when you’re dealing with this error code:

  • Check engine light
  • Engine pings on acceleration
  • Engine may be running hotter than normal
  • No noticeable symptoms (rare)
  • Drivability problems (e.g., lack of power and hesitation)
See also  P0332 Code: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)

How to Diagnose the P0330 Code

Troubleshooting OBD-II codes, like the P0330, involves determining the root cause. However, this can prove to be difficult, given that most codes have multiple possible causes.

For the average DIYer, it’s important to rely on easy-to-follow and informative resources, such as repair guides and other manuals. You can use the video resources below to get more information on how to diagnose the P0330 code:

How to Fix the P0330 Code

While we recommend bringing your vehicle to a professional mechanic, experienced vehicle owners can also attempt to fix the P0330 code themselves. Here are the steps to try and fix the P0330 code:

Check for Other Engine Codes

The P0330 code might not be the only code that your scan tool’s detected. Take note of any other codes to help diagnose the problem faster.

Clear the Codes and Road Test the Vehicle

Start with a clean slate and do a road test to see if the problem returns. Run your vehicle uphill and try some hard acceleration to try and induce engine knock that can trigger the P0330 code. If the check engine light comes back on, you can scan for codes again and cross-check them with your previous list to see if they’re the same or different.

Wiring Issue: Check Up on the Knock Sensor Voltage

Use a multimeter to check the knock sensor voltage to make sure it’s within the proper operating range of 6 kHz to 15 kHz. If the voltage is off, there’s likely a problem with the wiring around the knock sensor. Check for damaged or disconnected wires and replace these as needed.

Temperature Sensor Issue: Check the Temperature Sensor Voltage

When the temperature sensor voltage is the one outside suitable operating ranges, then it could be the temperature sensor giving false readings to the PCM. The proper operating range depends on the temperature. For a cold engine, the temperature voltage sensor will read 2V. A warm engine will read 0.5V. Abnormal readings indicate an issue with the sensor, which can lead to the engine running lean as well as engine knock. Check the temperature sensor as well as the connected wires and replace parts accordingly if you find issues.

See also  P0325 Code: Knock Sensor Malfunction (Sensor 1, Bank 1)

Knock Sensor and Harness Issue: Replacement

If the knock sensor is the problem, we recommend replacing both it and the harness to resolve code P0330.

Engine Coolant System Issue

If replacing the knock sensor doesn’t solve the P0330 code, then it’s possible that the engine coolant system is malfunctioning. Run tests on the system and resolve what you can if the check engine light remains on even after you replace the knock sensor and harness.

Identifying the source of the P0330 code can be tricky, and the solutions for code P0330 on a Toyota Camry might differ from the solutions for code P0330 on a Ford F150. If all else fails, we recommend taking your vehicle to a licensed mechanic for a professional assessment and repair.

About The Authors
Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
Reviewed By Richard McCuistian, ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician

Technical Reviewer at

Richard McCuistian has worked for nearly 50 years in the automotive field as a professional technician, an instructor, and a freelance automotive writer for Motor Age, ACtion magazine, Power Stroke Registry, and others. Richard is ASE certified for more than 30 years in 10 categories, including L1 Advanced Engine Performance and Light Vehicle Diesel.

CarParts Research Team
Written By Research Team

Automotive and Tech Writers

The Research Team is composed of experienced automotive and tech writers working with (ASE)-certified automobile technicians and automotive journalists to bring up-to-date, helpful information to car owners in the US. Guided by's thorough editorial process, our team strives to produce guides and resources DIYers and casual car owners can trust.

Any information provided on this Website is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace consultation with a professional mechanic. The accuracy and timeliness of the information may change from the time of publication.

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