To change a CV joint on a driveshaft, you’ll need to secure the axle, remove the retaining clip or bolts holding the joint, drive the joint off the shaft splines with a soft-faced hammer, then slide on the replacement and seat its clip. The work goes faster and cleaner with the axle out of the vehicle and clamped in a vise, but you can do parts of it under your vehicle if you’re careful. Most CV joints attach to the shaft with an internal circlip that snaps into a groove on the splines, so the joint won’t budge until this clip releases.
Key Takeaways
- A snap ring or circlip locks the CV joint to the shaft splines, so steady, firm hammering is what frees it, not brute force in one direction.
- Removing the full axle and clamping it in a vise makes the job far easier than fighting it on your vehicle.
- A large brass punch or drift and a 2 to 3 lb hand sledge give the cleanest results without mushrooming the splines.
- Inspect and replace both boots while you’re in there, since a torn boot is usually what kills the joint.
- Check play, clamp condition, and grease packing before reinstalling, because a loose or dry joint fails fast.
How a CV Joint Attaches to the Shaft
The constant-velocity joint sits on a splined end of the shaft and is held in place by a wire retaining ring or circlip seated in a groove. There will usually be a stop ring, as shown in the drawing, that seats against the splined center when the shaft is fully in place.
This clip on the end is the whole reason the joint resists removal. People often assume the joint is pressed or threaded, then pound on the wrong spot and get nowhere.
Some inner joints differ. In certain designs, the inner CV joint bolts to a flange with hex bolts (Volkswagen Beetles and Rabbits are well-known examples), so you’d undo those fasteners to release that side rather than driving it off the splines. Always check for CV joint bolts along the inner flange before assuming that everything taps off. If you see hex heads or internal triple-square (XZN) 12-point fasteners, that joint comes apart at the flange. Knowing where the CV joint is located on your vehicle helps you tell the inner and outer designs apart before you start.
Tools You’ll Need
You don’t need specialty equipment for most axle CV joint and driveshaft repairs, but the right hitting tools matter. Plan on a soft-faced or brass mallet, a large brass punch or drift, and a 2- to 3-lb hand sledge for stubborn joints. Add a bench vise, snap ring pliers, a boot clamp tool or pliers, fresh CV joint grease, and replacement CV boots and clamps.
A vise is the single biggest time-saver. Holding the splined shaft solid lets you concentrate your blows and keep the joint square as it walks off.
How To Remove the CV Joint on a Driveshaft
Removing the CV joint on a driveshaft comes down to releasing the clip and tapping the joint off without damaging the splines. Work methodically, and the joint usually comes free within a few solid strikes once the clip lets go.
This is usually pretty easy with the shaft in a vise, but you need to articulate the joint so that you’re actually striking the splined hub instead of the cage or outer housing. Some CV joints come off more easily than others.
Pro Tips are nuggets of information direct from ASE-certified automobile technicians working with CarParts.com, which may include unique, personal insights based on their years of experience working in the automotive industry. These can help you make more informed decisions about your car.
Pro Tip: Important note: Some CV joints have a snap ring that you must release with snap ring pliers rather than a spring clip on the end of the shaft. Wipe away the grease where the shaft enters the CV joint so you don't miss this retaining ring. Otherwise, the joint will not come off, regardless of how firmly you strike it.
Getting the Axle Ready
Decide whether you’re pulling the whole axle, which is generally the easiest approach. If you can, unbolt or release the axle from the transmission or hub and bring it to the bench. Mounting the assembly in a vise makes everything that follows easier and lets you keep the shaft pointed straight up while you work the joint off. If you do decide to pull the unit, our CV axle replacement guide walks through removing the full axle step by step.
If you’re leaving the axle on your vehicle, clean the area first so that debris doesn’t get into the splines. Position the shaft so that you have a clear, straight angle to strike the joint.
Releasing the Clip and Driving It Off
Cut and remove the old boot clamps and slide the torn boot back to expose the joint. Set a brass punch against the inner face of the joint, near the shaft, and strike firmly with the sledge. The goal is to drive the joint straight off the splines so that the internal clip compresses and releases.
Expect to hit it harder than feels comfortable. Several firm, square blows usually do it. Keep the joint aligned so that it walks off evenly instead of cocking on the splines. When the retaining clip clears the groove, the joint slides free.
If it still won’t move, double-check for hidden bolts or a clip you can reach with snap ring pliers. Not every joint uses the same retention, and forcing the wrong type risks bending the shaft.
How To Install the Replacement CV Joint
Slide the new boot and clamps onto the shaft first, in the correct order, before the replacement CV joint goes on. It’s a common mistake to fit the joint and then realize the boot can’t pass over it.
Pack the joint with the supplied grease, working it into the bearings and making sure you add enough grease to prevent early wear. Line up the splines and tap the new joint on with a soft-faced mallet until the retaining clip seats into its groove with an audible click or firm stop. Tug the joint by hand to confirm it’s locked and won’t pull off.
Seat the boot, distribute the rest of the grease, and crimp the clamps snug so that neither end can sling grease or let dirt in. A boot that isn’t sealed will tear and contaminate the joint again. If the boot is the only thing that failed, our CV boot replacement guide covers that lighter job on its own.
Inspection and Safety Checks
The axle is part of your drivetrain, so a sloppy reinstallation can leave you stranded or cause a vibration at speed. Before buttoning up, check the joint for excessive radial play, confirm that both clamps are tight, and make sure the boot has no nicks. Spin and flex the joint to feel for binding or grinding.
If you notice clicking on turns, vibration under load, or grease thrown around the wheel well after the repair, recheck your work and have the axle inspected before driving far. None of these symptoms should appear for a properly assembled joint, and ignoring them can lead to a failure while moving.
FAQ
Look at the joint where it meets the shaft. A splined joint with no visible fasteners almost always uses an internal circlip and taps off. If you see hex bolts around a flange, this joint unbolts instead.
Sometimes, yes. People have driven the joint off with the axle still on the car, especially on the outer end. It’s harder to get a clean, straight strike, so a vise and a removed axle make the job much easier.
Usually the retaining clip hasn’t released, or you’re striking at an angle. Make sure the punch sits against the joint near the shaft, hit straight, and confirm there’s no bolt or accessible snap ring you missed.
It’s better not to. A torn boot is the most common cause of joint failure, so install fresh boots and clamps while everything’s apart. New grease and a sealed boot give the repair its best chance.
Use the CV-specific grease that comes with the replacement joint or boot kit. Pack the joint fully and put the rest inside the boot before clamping.
A worn CV joint isn’t a repair to put off, since a failed axle assembly can leave you on the shoulder waiting for a tow. With the right punch, a vise, and a fresh boot kit, you can knock this out in an afternoon and get rolling again. Find the joints, boots, clamps, and tools you need at CarParts.com and get your driveshaft back in shape.
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