FAQs—Chrysler Brake Disc and Pad Kit
- When I depressed the brake pedal, I felt some pulsations. I then checked the brakes and found some of the discs to have uneven wear. What makes brake discs wear unevenly? What are the triggers?
The uneven wear on the brake disc may be caused by a wide set of factors, which include excessive runout. Hard spots are another common reason for this type of wear. The disc may get somewhat distorted or warped if the lug nuts are not torqued properly or evenly. This may also be due to dirt or rust that has built up between the rotor and the hub. Pulsations in the brake pedal can be felt if there’s uneven wear on the brake disc.
- Do brake pads really wear out faster than brake discs/rotors? What’s the average lifespan?
Brake pads wear out faster than brake discs/rotors, which last about three times longer. Brake pads can last anywhere between 30,000 and 70,000 miles. Some would say, however, that on average, their lifespan is about 50,000 miles, though some may go as far as 75,000 to 100,000 miles. A lot of factors affect the condition of brake pads. These include the kind of brake disc and pad used, the driving style, road condition, type of vehicle, and brake service/maintenance. Brake pads may wear out faster if the vehicle is mostly driven in an area with stop-and-go traffic as opposed to vehicles that usually travel via highways. Hard braking and frequent stops can take a toll on the brake pads.
- What are the symptoms of a damaged or worn-out brake disc or rotor? I want to be able to tell if something’s wrong with the disc even when I’m just driving.
A bad rotor or disc may cause some low grinding noise or any unusual sounds when you depress the pedal. You may also feel some pulsations. Abrupt stops instead of smooth halts are another common sign. If you experience any of these, take time to check the brakes. If you find some ridges, scores, or any form of damage on the brake disc, then it may be time to have this turned or replaced as needed.
- I’m attempting a DIY on my brake pads. Do you have any good tip when changing the brake pads? I have everything I need here. I just don’t want to miss anything.
When changing the brake pads, it’s best to use some brake silicone lubricant to help parts move or work smoothly. Graphite-based anti-seize compound is another option for this. Some would change the rattle clips as well, instead of just cleaning them. Take time to check the brake discs/rotors to see if they need to be resurfaced or replaced. Even with new brake pads, optimum braking performance can’t be achieved if the brake discs are not in their best condition anymore. Braking efficiency will suffer.
- How can I tell if I have bad brake pads and probably need a new set of pads or even a complete Chrysler brake pad and disc kit?
Common symptoms would have to be the strange noises you hear when braking. These include grinds, clicks, or screeches. Brake pad wear can also be the reason for having a pulsating brake pedal. Vehicle leaning to one side even when the steering wheel isn’t turned is yet another hint that the brake pads must be checked. Upon visual inspection, you may find out that pads are already too thin. Deep grooves and scores in the brake disc can also be a sign of brake pad wear. In any case, you may have to change the brake pads along with the brake discs (or have the discs resurfaced instead).
- What are the signs that would tell me when the brake disc/rotor already needs to be turned or replaced?
When checking the rotors, see if there’s any groove or score. If the hollow is over 0.5mm, the disc needs to be turned or replaced. The disc surface can reveal a lot of things about the condition of the brake disc. While it’s quite usual to find minor cracking on the surface, deep cracks shouldn’t be ignored. Other signs of visible damage on the disc may include glazing, rust, heat spots, and pits.
- Are pad-slap repairs a good idea? Or would it be better to just replace the brake pads and disc?
A good number of home mechanics have attempted to do some pad-slap repairs. Some were successful; other didn’t end well. This is not highly recommended for all since this repair isn’t a long-term solution. Eventually, you may end up still considering replacing both brake parts.
A Guide to Chrysler Brakes Installation Using a Brake Disc and Pad Kit
Like bicycle brakes, your brake disc or rotor uses a caliper that squeezes the brake pads against the wheel 's axel, which slows the movement of your wheels down. Meanwhile, your tires will actually do the stopping for your vehicle as their unmoving wheels gain traction and halt your momentum like rubber door stops on asphalt. On that note, here 's what you need to do in order to replace your brake disc or rotor using the proper kit.
What You 'll Need
- Brake spray
- Turkey baster or siphon
- Heavy rubber mallet
- Rust buster spray if rotor is rusty
- Lug wrench
- Large C-clamp
- Tire chocks
- Jack and jack stands
Step 1:Use jack stands to lift your car in order to safely remove your wheel. On the other wheels, put wheel chocks on them to keep your Chrysler from rolling away. After getting to the brake disc, inspect it for signs of damage to see if it requires replacing.
Step 2:Does your disc have track marks on it? Is it or the brake pads thinning out? Those could be indications of replacement right there. If it 's smooth and level to your outside rim edges, then it 's healthy and fine.
Step 3:Draw out the brake fluid from the master cylinder using either the turkey baster or a siphon. Keep the cap off and take out about one-third of the fluid. You can possibly reuse this later; just leave it in a clean container.
Step 4:Use the C-clamp to compress the caliper. Place one side of the clamp unto the interior side of the caliper and the other end on the exterior side. Squeeze the clamp by hand for the sake of caliper depression. Watch out for master cylinder fluid overflow.
Step 5:Unbolt the stock caliper and the pads, which you should then replace with new ones along with the brake disc to ensure smooth braking in the future. Carefully remove the pads if they 're undamaged and you wish to reuse them.
Step 6:Hang the caliper somewhere out of your way with wire but avoid disturbing or twisting the brake fluid line while doing so. Don 't use the fluid line as your means of hanging the caliper up because you could ruin it in the process.
Step 7: Pull the brake rotor towards you. It could have rusty edges if it doesn 't slide out smoothly, necessitating use of a rust-busting product. You can also twist hard then pull the disc back and/or tap the edges with a mallet to loosen it up.
Step 8: After taking out the stock rotor, slip your replacement rotor into the place. Check to see if it 's seated all the way back and placed against the axle plate. Put back the pads and discs within the caliper by bolting them into their proper places.
Step 9:Clean off your new brake disc off any debris and leftover rust from the previous disc by using brake spray rust buster. Let the fluid dry out on its own; don 't wipe it off. Make sure the disc is oil-free as well.
Step 10:Put the wheel back then do the same above steps in removing and replacing all the other brake discs and pads on the same axle and the other axle. Refill the master cylinder with brake fluid (whether it 's new or recycled fluid that was sucked out earlier).