How to Replace Your Clutch Bellcrank
A clutch bellcrank or clutch release bell crank (CRB for short) is a lever with two arms that have a common fulcrum at their junction used for connecting the clutch pedal to the master clutch cylinder. Interestingly enough, it takes an hour at most to remove parts of your car to access and replace the CRB.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
What You'll Need
- New clutch release bellcrank
- Complete CRBreplacement kit
- Bellcrank pivot stud
- Various size wrenches
- Adjustable rod with nut
Step 1:It takes approximately an hour to fix your CRB in a DIY (do-it-yourself) fashion. First, jack your car up, take off the throwout lever return spring, and loosen the clutch wear adjuster by unscrewing the single nut that's keeping them in place.
Step 2:Remove the cotter pins from the clutch arm and adjustable rod as well. Keep both the clutch wear adjuster and cotter pins for reinstallation later unless you intend of replacing them too long with the CRB.
Step 3:Choose which mounting bracket to remove first. In this guide, it was the frame mounted bracket that was taken off, but you can also choose to do the transmission mounted one instead if you so wish.
Step 4:After the bracket is removed, pull the clutch bellcrank free from your transmission-mounted bracket then do the same with the CRB of the frame mount bracket. Be careful when doing this because there are some wires and cables around to avoid.
Step 5:While under your car, pry the outer boot, the boot retainer clip, and the pivot bushing off of the transmission-mounted bracket. Contrary to their names, the inner boot goes on the door or tire side and the outer boot goes towards the center of your vehicle.
Step 6:Take the original bellcrank pivot stud (it comes in one piece) before replacing it with a new stud. If after cleaning the gunk, the original pivot stud remains in good condition, you can get to keep it but you can also order a new stud replacement if you want to err on the side of caution.
Step 7:Clean off the underside parts then put together the new parts. Smear a dollop of grease on the boot, the stud, and the pivot bushing. Slip the inner boot to the bracket over the stud then put the greased pivot bushing over the same stud and hold everything in place with a clip.
Step 8:Replace your adjustable rod. Some replacement rods prove to be better than the originals you have, like one that has its own internal bushing in order to secure the new CRB with some nuts and lock washers versus a bent piece of metal held in place with a cotter pin.
Step 9:Crawl back underneath your vehicle to grease the pivot bushing, outer boot, and transmission mounted bushing. Pop the frame mount bracket to your clutch bellcrank (that's already greased up) for the sake of reinstallation.
Step 10:Reinstall everything by doing things in reverse. From popping the CRB into your transmission-mounted bracket and stud all the way to reconnecting the throwout lever return spring you've removed earlier. Use your clutch wear adjuster to adjust the clutch pedal's freeplay as well.
When searching for a CRB aftermarket replacement, look for one that's OEM or OE-style (instead of a cheap knockoff) to ensure a direct fit to your automobile. Without it, your clutch won't be able to disengage your power transmission properly.