Automotive DIY: Shock Mount Plate
Installing a shock mount plate or extension bracketto your shock mount is required after installing a three-inch (or more) lift on your automobile. That's because the rear axle will tend to rotate a bit, which causes the lower spring perch to make contact with your shock can enough times to wear both of them down.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
What You'll Need
- Shock mount platekit
- Ratchet extensions (long and short)
- White lithium grease
- Bench vise or large c-clamp
- White lithium grease
- 13-, 15-, and 18-millimeter sockets and wrenches
- -inch, ¾-inch sockets and wrenches
Step 1:When working on your vehicle, you should park on level ground. This is especially true if you're going to be under it. Don't forget to engage the parking break and put it in gear so that it won't accidentally roll out of the way.
Step 2:Remove your rear shocks with a 15-millimeter or 18-millimeter socket and wrench to unscrew the axle bolt. As for the upper bolts that are attached to the frame cross member of the vehicle, you need a 13-millimeter socket with a long ratchet extension to assist you.
Step 3:Rummage through your shock plate kit and get the two metal bushing sleeves included in the package. Apply white lithium grease internally on your shock bushings' insides before inserting the metal sleeves into them as far as you can possibly go.
Step 4:Use a C-clamp or a bench vice to press the metal sleeve all the way into the bushing. This will allow you to firmly attach your shock mount plate unto your vehicle without fear of detachment, misalignment, or looseness.
Step 5:To attach the shock mount plate properly, you'll need to first climb under the rear passage side of your automobile and then attach the shell directly to the factory axle mount with the kit's nylock nut, washers, and grade-8 bolt. You should also utilize a -inch socket with a short extension and wrench to really fasten the nuts and bolts as firmly as you possibly could even at that awkward angle.
Step 6:The old factory shock bolt should then be loosely attached through the middle holes of the shock mount plate (with the original metal sleeve in between it) and right through the factory axle mount in order to get it properly installed.
Step 7:Go then to the frame cross member in order to attach the plate unto it with bolts tightened to about 23 ft. lbs. of torque. As for the bottom end of your shock, attach the extension unto it with the nylock nut and Grade 8 washers included in your shock mount plate kit.
Step 8:Make sure that the washers are between the shock bushing and the new shock metal plate as well. Tighten up the factory nut and bolt to secure the plate to the factory axle mount with a 15-millimeter and 18-millimeter socket and wrench.
Step 9:Tighten up the nylock nut and shock mount bolt with a ¾-inch socket and wrench. The torque for both of these bolts and nuts should reach to 74 ft. lbs. to ensure maximum locked-in firmness. Do the same process on your vehicle's driver side shocks.
When you're on the trail, a three-inch lift on your jeep or SUV can put a huge dent on the shock and damage your valves unless you put in an extension bracket or shock mount plate to protect your ride from the potential wearandtear.